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Answering Your Mail: Air Conditioning and Allergies

May 11, 2007

My daughter and I suffer terribly during allergy season, which is now here on Long Island.  Any air conditioner-related tips to prevent our headaches, congestion, sore throats from getting even worse!!!!!

 

I feel your pain, as does my wife, as I toss and turn for much of the night.  Far be it from me to dispense medical advice, but I did some research for you and learned that my recommendations are not too far off from those of Dr. Vincent Ianelli.

 

When possible, an allergic person should use air conditioners at home, in the office, or in a car to help prevent pollen and mold allergens from entering.  Various types of air-filtering devices made with fiberglass or electrically charged plates may help reduce allergens produced in the home, and these can be added to the heating and cooling systems.  In addition, portable devices that can be used in individual rooms are especially helpful in reducing animal allergens.

 

An allergy specialist, not an air conditioning ace, can suggest which kind of filter is best for the home of a particular patient.  Before buying a filtering device, the patient should rent one and use it in a closed room (the bedroom, for instance) for a month or two to see whether allergy symptoms diminish.  The airflow should be sufficient to exchange the air in the room five or six times per hour.  The size and efficiency of the filtering device should therefore be determined in part by the size of the room.

 

Finally, persons with allergies should be wary of exaggerated claims for appliances that cannot really clean the air. Very small air cleaners cannot remove dust and pollen–and no air purifier can prevent viral or bacterial diseases such as influenza, pneumonia, or tuberculosis. Buyers of electrostatic precipitators should compare the machine’s ozone output with Federal standards. Ozone can irritate the nose and airways of persons with allergies, especially those with asthma, and can increase the allergy symptoms. Other kinds of air filters, such as HEPA filters, do not release ozone into the air.  HEPA filters, however, require adequate air flow to force air through them.
 

Stay cool!

 

Filed under: Portable AC Units, Tips, Air Conditioners, Mold, Children/babies, Health — Nikos @ 4:17 pm

Keeping Your Indoor Coil Clean

April 23, 2007

Also known as the evaporator coil, the indoor coil sits just inside the heat pump or air conditioner cabinet.  When conditioning your air, the indoor coil is damp and attracts dirt.  As you can well imagine, a dirty indoor coil that harbors mold and other contaminants is harmful, wastes energy, and reduces air flow (translation: less cooling!).

 

Depending on how often the air conditioner is used, the filter’s efficiency at trapping dirt, and the ductwork’s airtightness, the indoor coild should be cleaned every few years.  However, indoor coils are generally hard to reach and are therefore not frequently cleaned. 

 

One thing you can do to keep your indoor coil clean is to seal up the seams in your home’s ductwork; leaky ducts often dew in dirt that accumulates in the coil.  Aside from that, you’ll need to call in the hired guns.  To clean the actual coil, a service technician will frequently have to cut into the ductwork to inspect the coil, which is best cleaned with a soft brush and a chemical solution.  A technician usualy needs a few hours to clean the indoor coil and charges from $50-200, depending in accessibility.

 

Stay cool!

 

Filed under: Maintenance, Air Conditioners, Central AC — Nikos @ 2:26 pm

Is Your AC Due for a Tune-UP?

April 18, 2007

It may not feel like it outside, but spring is here, and before you know it, it will be time to dust off the ol’ air conditioner.  I’ve received a number of e-mails from people, who, after a long winter, are wondering if (or when) they should get a tune-up for their AC units.

 

An easy way to determine whether your air conditioner needs a tune-up is to check the difference in temperature between the air flowing out of the supply ducts and the air that is drawn into the return ducts.  Naturally, you’ll need an accurate thermometer, and you’ll need to operate the cooling equipment for at least 15 minutes once the outdoor temperature tops 80 degrees.  While the air conditioner is running, measure the temperature of the air at a return and a supply register, whcih should be the ones closest to the inside cooling equipment.  the temperature difference should be between 14-20 degrees.  If the difference in temperature is less than 14 degrees, it’s time to schedule a service call.

Filed under: Tips, Maintenance, Air Conditioners — Nikos @ 3:32 pm

Answering Your Mail: Air Conditioning and Babies

March 23, 2007

My husband and I will be having our first child this summer.  Is it ok to keep an air conditioner in the bedroom with a baby?  I thought I heard/read somewhere that the air conditioner brings in mold.  Is that true?

 

First, congratulations. 

 
Second, I do not think that having an air conditioner in the room will “bring in mold” to the baby.  More important than cooling the air, an air conditioner literally conditions the air by removing humidity and therefore inhibiting the growth of mold.  If, however, your filter is not clean, mold (or that mildew smell) may result, so the best advice I could give you is to make sure that your air conditioner filter is clean!!!  On second thought, get a new one altogether.  You know, for the kids…

 
Third, running the air conditioner is considered by researchers and those much smarter than yours truly to be an easy, effective way to prevent children’s allergies.

 
Finally, I also read (a few years ago) about the positive correlation between SIDS and being to warm at night, so keeping the room cool by way of air conditioner should help in this instance, as well.

 

Stay cool!!!

 

 

 

Filed under: Air Conditioners, Children/babies — Nikos @ 4:04 pm

Answering Your Mail: Central AC and Rust

March 16, 2007

My home has central air-conditioning, and because of a condensation problem with the air-conditioning unit, the cement on one side of the house is getting rust stains.  How can I remove these stains?
First, you need to address the condensation, which is created by the unit as it dehumidifies and cools indoor air and drains through a plastic tube and into a floor drain. Often a small condensate pump is used to send the water through the tube to the drain.  So, either the tube is clogged, causing water to back up, or the pump is defective.

 

Examine the tube for leaks or clogs. If there aren’t any, check the pump. Fill the pump pan with water, and if the pump does not start, it could be broken or not receiving power. Check electrical connections.

 

As for the rust stains, try using trisodium phosphate substitute in warm water, or a tile and grout cleaner containing phosphoric acid.  Brush the solution into the stain, let it set, then rinse with water.  As a last resort, try diluting muriatic acid with water (about 10 parts water to 1 part acid) and apply it to dampened concrete with a soft-bristled brush. Scrub gently.

 

Be careful with the muriatic acid, which is extremely caustic; always add acid to water to avoid splashing.  Wear a respirator, goggles and rubber gloves, and make sure you cover your arms and legs!  Be sure the area is well ventilated, and have a neutralizing agent (baking soda or garden lime) on hand in case of spills.

 

Also, you’ll want to avoid using any acid before or after trisodium phosphate because the mixture creates a gas.  Instead, rinse the area with water, and let it dry before trying another cleaner.

 

Stay cool!!!
 

Filed under: Tips, Air Conditioners, Central AC — Nikos @ 3:39 pm

Answering Your Mail: Central AC and Rust

My home has central air-conditioning, and because of a condensation problem with the air-conditioning unit, the cement on one side of the house is getting rust stains.  How can I remove these stains?

 
First, you need to address the condensation, which is created by the unit as it dehumidifies and cools indoor air and drains through a plastic tube and into a floor drain. Often a small condensate pump is used to send the water through the tube to the drain.  So, either the tube is clogged, causing water to back up, or the pump is defective.

 

Examine the tube for leaks or clogs. If there aren’t any, check the pump. Fill the pump pan with water, and if the pump does not start, it could be broken or not receiving power. Check electrical connections.

 

As for the rust stains, try using trisodium phosphate substitute in warm water, or a tile and grout cleaner containing phosphoric acid.  Brush the solution into the stain, let it set, then rinse with water.  As a last resort, try diluting muriatic acid with water (about 10 parts water to 1 part acid) and apply it to dampened concrete with a soft-bristled brush. Scrub gently.

 

Be careful with the muriatic acid, which is extremely caustic; always add acid to water to avoid splashing.  Wear a respirator, goggles and rubber gloves, and make sure you cover your arms and legs!  Be sure the area is well ventilated, and have a neutralizing agent (baking soda or garden lime) on hand in case of spills.

 

Also, you’ll ant to avoid using any acid before or after trisodium phosphate because the mixture creates a gas.  Instead, rinse the area with water, and let it dry before trying another cleaner.

 

Stay cool!!!

 
 

Filed under: Tips, Air Conditioners, Central AC — Nikos @ 3:38 pm

Answering Your Mail: Dealing with Mold

March 8, 2007

I have mold growing on the outside of my air conditioning unit.  Can I clean that up myself or should I call in a licensed profressional?  Could there be mold growing on the inside of my unit?

 

The mold on the outside of a unit usually is the result of the unit running in a hot environment, like, for instance, a garage.  When the unit is running properly, the air inside is about 58 degrees, and the air on the outside of the unit is about 95 degrees, which causes the cabinet to get cold; this produces mold.  Mold could be growing on the inside of your air consitioner, depending on how often the AC is cleaned and serviced, the type of filtration that is being used, and the type of equipment and how it is installed.  A garage is typically a cold, wet environment, so when dirt and dust go through the filter, they attach to the moisture and produce mold and mildew.  I advise you to have your air conditioner serviced with a precision tune-up and a good cleaning.

 
While we’re discussing mold, remember that before you begin to use your air conditioner every year, inspect it for mold and have the AC’s coils cleaned as needed.  Otherwise, your air conditioner may spew mold spores into your home. Remember to also empty drip pans regularly to prevent mold build-up. 

 

Stay cool!

Filed under: Tips, Maintenance, Air Conditioners, Mold — Nikos @ 2:09 pm

Answering Your Mail: Why is my air conditioner producing ice?

February 23, 2007

Why is my air conditioner producing ice?

 

Usually, when your air conditioner produces ice it’s because - now, you may not like hearing this - you have the wrong size air conditioner unit for the size of the area being cooled. Yikes.  Another reason - and one that is hopefully more applicable for your situation -  is that the outside temperature is lower than the inside temperature.

 
If your air conditioner is frozen, turn the unit off or switch it to the “Fan Only” position to let it thaw.To further help prevent ice formation on your air conditioning unit, run the unit in the “High Fan” position, and turn the thermostat down to a lower setting.  Again, you should also make sure that the size of your air conditioner is appropriate for the size of the room that it is being used in.

 

 

Stay cool!

 

 

 

Filed under: Tips, Air Conditioners — Nikos @ 4:40 pm

Answering Your Mail: Solar-Powered AC

February 15, 2007

What’s the deal with solar-powered air conditioners, you guys don’t sell them?

 

We do not. 

 

I’m not too up the field, but the technology of solar-powered air conditioners seems pretty cool. I remember reading about a company called Matteran Energy that designed a low-temperature system that produced temperature refrigeration (41 degrees F) using relatively warm water (160 degrees F) right out of a common rooftop solar hot water heater. Not bad.  A simple vapor cycle uses a venturi for evaporating the refrigerant, requiring no compressor, feedpump, or absorption to cycle the process.

 

 

Stay cool!

Filed under: Solar power, New technology, Air Conditioners — Nikos @ 4:42 pm

Answering Your Mail: It’s Winter!

February 6, 2007

It’s 9 degrees outside and deathly windy, so what are you writing about air conditioners for!?!?!?!?!  Don’t you have an off-season?

 

Yes, it is cold and windy, and no, we do not have an off-season.  Otherwise, I’d migrate to the Bahamas.

 

While it may not be “air conditioner season,” the winter chill should not usher in an “out of sight, out of mind” policy regarding your air conditioning unit.  Be sure to keep your window air conditioners covered (inside and out!), and if you have removed your air conditioner, now is as good a time as any to make sure that your air conditioner’s filter is properly cleaned and dried, ready to cool you and your family when things heat up.

 

Stay cool!

Filed under: General Info., Maintenance, Winter — Nikos @ 2:33 pm
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